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THE RADICAL CLASSICIST: new(ish) releases from Champagne Gaston Chiquet

I confess, even I am sometimes (and incoherently) tempted to think of Nicolas Chiquet’s Champagnes as middle of the road – at least until I drink them. At that point all I want is to be walking down that road forever, because these Champagnes are not only ridiculously delicious, they embody permanent values that are impervious to the seductions of trendiness.

If you don’t know them, please get to know them. What you will find are: Champagnes intimately expressive of the locale of the heart of the Marne Valley, a Chardonnay from a Pinot Noir terroir that expands what we can understand about that grape in Champagne, a Pinot Noir based vintage wine that is uniquely beautiful and that also enlarges the frontiers of our knowledge of that variety, and finally a classic NV Brut and a resplendent Special Club that offers all the “luxury” we could demand from Champagne.

And if you eschew these wines and their underlying values because you prefer “edgy” wines that smell and taste like fermented dung beetles, well….you deserve what you choose to drink.

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