GOBELSBURG UP TO DATE!

I know I report on these quite regularly. That’s because the estate is remarkably interesting and consequential, and because they are very good about sending me samples. With this collection I’m unusually timely, as the Crus on the market are (still) the 2023s, and all the other wines were current when I visited them last April.

There are two more reasons for paying this degree of attention. One is, even with a winery as reliable as this one, the occasional flub sneaks through, e.g., the premox issue with some of the 2015s (imponderable from a vintage with such prominent acidity), while the second issue is, I assume, temporary and vintage-dependent. Attentive readers will have guessed already – I am wary of 2023. Again, they were good at the property five months ago, and they have been well-reviewed, but I’m close to feeling that a really good 2023 is a wine that defied the odds.

Should you be interested, I’m tasting over three days: first all the Grüner Veltliners, then three Rieslings and three (of the four) Sekts, and finally the four reds, the remaining Sekt, and the (two) Tradition wines. I make this explanation to bring you inside my tasting logic and also because I won’t arrange the notes this way.

Thus will the games commence!