As you know, Selbachs make the wines now, following the passings of the Merkelbach brothers. Rolf and Alfred’s methods are being followed, in order to preserve their Edenic style, their lightness, and their freedom from affect.   What I don’t know is whether the old viticulture is being continued, including harvesting dates and methods. I trust it is being followed at least in spirit, because a precise facsimile seems impossible. Given that most of the vines grow in the class

[Editor's note: Find all of Terry's Tea Thoughts here. ] Don’t expect the explicit muscatel “attack” we had with the 2024s. I liked that, it was fun, but at times it was so uniform it felt like it was grafted on. Still, the few ’24 teas I have left are a reminder of why the term “muscatel” exists at all; the teas can be overtly grapey. I noticed its absence when the first ‘25 teas arrived, and thought it might be a problem, but these teas have deeper and more inscrutable tric

I have to say Spain was great except for when I got locked into a public toilet in San Sebastián and the police had to be called to spring me loose. It began innocently enough; Karen had used the thing and held the door open for me to follow, but as I was standing over the bowl and starting to whizz I was suddenly sprayed with a cleaning material from nozzles in the ceiling, so I jumped back and had a moment of “WTF” and then the floor nozzles opened up and sprayed my shoes,

Of course, it being Nikolaihof there will be a panoply of vintages, many of them old or at least mature. This was the best culling among the wines I tasted at the estate five months ago, as this is an estate where gazing forward makes more sense than looking backward. That is, for the wines as such. The estate retains its dignity and gravitas, but in recent years some wines slipped out of the cradle, and one never knew how things would be. This problem is most of the way to