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THE 2023 SAMPLES FROM ZIEREISEN


After the first run-through, an organizing theory offers itself. I may revise or update it, but as a vivid initial impression I think it is valid.

 

For PINOT NOIR this is one of the great estates in Europe. It’s a Michelin 3-star winery, worth the journey, the acme of its idiom. With Burgundy prices as they currently are, affordable and superb Pinot Noir has to justify a close look, but these are much more than mere “Burgundy-substitutes;” they are in fact remarkable wines entirely in their own right, and I can’t fathom my cellar without them.

 

Among the WHITES the most important variety is GUTEDEL, and if one is an amateur of the grape one will be richly rewarded for the detour to Mr. Ziereisen. The other whites, PINOT GRIS, PINOT BLANC, and CHARDONNAY, can give pleasurable wines that you’ll be delighted to drink if you’re already there, but that do not warrant making the journey.

 

The SYRAH appears to depend on the prevailing vintage. It is delicate in these environs. In ripe years (and from the top bottlings) you might find yourself making an “impulse-purchase” of one wine or another. Yet the wines warrant more than casual interest, especially the top ones.

 

This was the first time I’ve had all the wines to taste at home, so this report will be longer than usual.

 

With this as a guiding structure – or at least a working hypothesis, let’s smack our lips and pour some wine….

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