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Strub 1710

Old, close friends, of whom I’ve written many times. I always love tasting their wines, because I can’t possibly be objective, which is good, because I can be professional. That means allowing for ones subjectivities and making them work for you instead of struggling against them. Any temptation I might have to overrate the wines – and I have no such temptations – would be effaced by a concern that my friends might feel patronized if they sensed my thumb on the scale.

I tasted this range at the winery last May. Tasting them again, here at home, will be lovely. Has been lovely, because this is a markedly strong group of wines. Whether this is because Sebastian Strub has two consecutive vintages that suit him and align with his aims, or whether it’s just one of those moments where a vintner attains cruising altitude, there was joy all over the place.

Choice of glass was decisive with this assortment. Strub’s Rieslings can be edgy, and they usually prefer a glass that emphasizes their juiciness. Most of them seemed to cringe in the Jancis. Yet both of the (dry) Silvaners liked that glass best, and by more than a little. By the time of my third run-through I’d learned to stick with the Spiegelau except for the two Silvaners.

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