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SINEW AND BRIGHTNESS; THE 2021 VINTAGE AT CANTZHEIM


This is the order in which I tasted them, flying blind to some degree, as proprietor Anna Reimann seems to be one of the enlightened growers – Loewen is another - who resist the strait-jacket of “Trocken” for wines which may very well taste dry but which exceed the limits set by well-meaning bureaucrats. (One assumes, at least, that they meant well.)


Some wines do say “dry” on the back label, and others say “off-dry” but those that wisely say nothing, I put them in a sequence based on alcohol. Yes, I could have looked on Cantzheim’s website, which may (or may not) have given the information I sought, but when I can I’d much rather taste knowing as little as possible about the wine’s analytical values. “Analyses are for beginners,” I once was admonished, and since it was Helmut Dönnhoff I sort of took it to heart.


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