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HARALD AND PETRA HEXAMER, Meddersheim, Nahe



The ‘22’ vintage wasn’t always kind to Riesling growers, among whom there were variations, not precisely in “quality” but rather in style. At this early stage there can exist a flavor in some of them that reminds me of botrytis, but isn’t; that recalls the hail-flavor (the crushed-up aspirin thing) but isn’t, and that seems to have been confined to Riesling, for reasons obscure to me. Other varieties planted nearby were free of whatever “taint” this may (or may not) be. The last time I encountered this it was in the similarly challenged 2014 vintage, some of which remained difficult and some of which emerged from a truculent adolescence to become rather beautiful grownups.


Harald sent along a late-released 2021 and also a 2012 he’d held back after selling some at the usual time. I didn’t need reminding, but I was reminded nonetheless how outstanding this vintner can be.



What I’ve decided to do is to fashion this report as I’d have fashioned a catalogue offering, i.e., to draw a veil of discretion over the “also-rans” and show you the (many) high spots. This won’t become my general policy, and you could accuse me of pulling punches, but honestly I don’t see what good it does to do otherwise in this instance.

 

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