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This is to say, the wines he sent me some time in the middle of last year, which reached me around All Saints Day, and to which I’m finally yielding to my constant temptation to lunge at them with unseemly eagerness.

There are a few cuvées MIA – a zero-dosage bottling which I’ve actually never tasted, his two cask-made wines (the Rive Gauche/Rive Droit which I like a lot albeit it pales next to the Special Club, and his new wine from the superb Dizy parcel Clos Leon, also cask made but more inferentially, tasting a bit like a Raveneau Chablis. He thought I’d quake at the wood flavor, but the wine is excellent and you should get some if you can).

The Champagnes are classy, gorgeous and sensible. Jean Paul Hebrart’s domain stands as a pinnacle in the Champagne grower community.

A final note; as quickly as these wines move through the market there are probably more recent disgorgements than these. I know for a fact that the Aÿ Blanc de Noirs is into 2016.

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