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Between their release schedule and the many vagaries of shipping in 2022, this is a de-facto hodge-podge of what was available at the moment a container was being loaded. Thus while it’s representative, it isn’t thorough. It omits the rapidly improving reds, for example. On the other hand, I’m looking at a bottle of Lamm Grüner Veltliner, and kvetching is the furthest thing from my mind.

We begin a tasting of Bründlmayer by assuming the wines are as they were intended to be. This is an estate that does little to nothing randomly. Nor do they “blow it” or lose track of some wine or other. The wines are guided by a vision and an idea, but these are neither rigid nor categorical. Indeed they often adapt themselves to the prevailing conditions without ever quite ad-libbing. And why do I tell you this? Because for all my unqualified admiration of this superb domain, a winery I often find tickling the miraculous, there are also wines I don’t like. There have always been wines I didn’t like.

And yet their approach, always pleasant and cordial, has been to say that everyone won’t like everything, but this (or that) is the wine they intended to make. Examples of these phenomena shall duly appear….

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